Sunset over Deer Island in Mazatlan. Photo by Terri Colby

 I made my first visit to Mazatlan, Mexico’s “Pearl of the Pacific,” earlier this month and found a new favorite beach town. But this city of 600,000 in the state of Sinaloa, is much more than a beach resort. It’s a city of history, a city of culture, a city of giant shrimp. It’s also a city with colorful colonial architecture and a Germanic influence that extends to the modern day and the locally brewed Pacifico beer. 

After a nearly effortless experience at baggage and customs at Maztatlan International Airport, I headed to my destination hotel in the city’s Zona Dorada or Golden Zone, the Hotel Playa Mazatlan. www.hotelplayamazatlan.com.  Frozen Margarita in hand, I followed the bell hop who was leading me to my room. Through a tiled corridor we went, turned left and then quickly right and wow: the Pacific Ocean, surface glistening in the sun, Deer Island lush and dark in the background. It was absolutely breathtaking. I made it a point to take this tile pathway every time I entered and exited the hotel.

My room on the fifth floor delivered another stunning view. From my balcony I could marvel at the smooth sand below, the sound of the waves disintegrating onto the shore, islands and city buildings in the distance. All of this painted a captivating portrait in daylight. But evening offered another charm: a night sky dark enough to reveal the stars and raise the volume on the waves crashing onto shore.

But, as I said, there’s more to Mazatlan than beach and ocean views:

 Pulmonias

The four-person open-air vehicles that look like golf carts and operate like taxis are fun, fun, fun and have become a symbol of Mazatlan. There’s even a monument to the Pulmonias along the city’s boardwalk. Make sure to take one from the Zona Dorada into old town at sunset. Ask the driver to turn the radio up loud. And think about asking him to stop to snap a picture of the sunset. This close to the equator, the sun dips below the horizon very quickly. The cost from the Zona Dorado into downtown is about 80 pesos.

Aroma Spa

A low-cost downtown destination for massages, facials and more. I had an incredible 90-minute massage for $25. That’s not a typo. Yes, the massage, by the nimble-fingered Evelyn, was one-and-a-half hours and it cost just $25. I also had a facial and a pedicure. I would pass on the facial next time. The pedicure was great because it cost just $12. But Aroma isn’t for everyone. It’s a funky place that looks like a combination college apartment and beach shack. Surfboards hang from the ceiling, the walls are painted bright colors and fake flowers dangle among the starfish and seahorses tacked to the walls.  Pedicures are done in the main lobby/waiting room. There is no Zen elegance or muted flute music here. But I can’t wait to go back. I will ask for Evelyn and maybe book 2 hours. Make sure to have cash. They said the credit card machine was broken. A complaint I had read about on Tripadvisor, too. I would have left Evelyn a bigger tip if Aroma had accepted plastic.

Alagua restaurant

Lunch at a new beachside restaurant wowed everyone in my group. The casual Alagua, which translates as “to the water” is a place I would happily recommend to anyone.

Don't miss the shrimp ceviche at Alagua in Mazatlan's Zona Dorada. Photo by Terri Colby

The shrimp

About 200 commercial shrimp boats work the waters off Mazatlan and visitors can buy the fresh catch in the downtown markets. Shrimp are one of my favorite foods and eating the large, fresh camarones at many meals on this trip, was a definite treat. The shrimp I had, and saw at the market, were larger than those you usually find at supermarkets in the U.S. Some we saw in the market weighed about 4 ounces each. That’s means just four shrimp per pound. For shrimp lovers, big is the way to go.

The Sand

Mazatlan is known as the Pearl of the Pacific and it has the softest sand of any beach I’ve experienced in Mexico. I loved the beach in Puerto Vallarta, about 250 miles south of Mazatlan, for its people watching and beauty. But not for its rough shore where rocks and shells mingle with the sand and are hard on bare feet. In Mazatlan, the sand is soft and I encountered only smooth sand and a gentle decline as I walked into the water.

El Centro Historico

Mazatlan is not just a beach town. With a population of 600,000, the city’s historic district, once the commercial center,  has been refurbished as a cultural and entertainment hub. The roughly 180-block area is anchored by the stunning 135-year-old Angela Peralta theater and the quaint Plaza Machado, surrounded by restaurants, art galleries, jazz clubs and shops.

The Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepcion in Mazatlan. Photo by Terri Colby.

Don’t miss the Catedral Basilica de la Inmaculada Concepcion, completed in 1890 with a Moroccan-tiled facade, Baroque interior and Stars of David in its stained-glass windows in memory of the Jewish family who contribued signifcant amount of money to the cathedral’s completion. The colonial district is home to 479 buildings designated as national historic landmarks. The vibrantly colored buildings, fanciful ironwork and winding brick pathways are the perfect backdrop for young lovers on benches, old men relaxing at shoe-shine stands and tourists smiling as they take it all in at sidewalk cafes.

www.gomazatlan.com

The 16th floor terrace at Chicago's Trump Tower is a bit pricey, but the views alone are worth the cost. Photo by Terri Colby

After visiting on a sunny Wednesday afternoon in late September, one of the last days for sandals and al fresco drinks, the $30 hole in my pocket for two specialty drinks didn’t seem quite so bad. What stayed with me was the view, facing east along the Chicago River, nearby skyscapers up close and personal, the city at our feet. Fabulous.

I had the Snapdragon to drink, a mixture of vodka, mashed strawberries and various other ingredients. It was refreshing, kind of like a flavored martini but not quite so sweet. In fact, I liked it enough to get another. But perhaps it was just the setting that encouraged my order.

Especially with summer about to move to the rear-view mirror, a fruity drink on a sunny if somewhat windy rooftop with views of the river, Lake Michigan and Chicago skyscrapers seemed worth the price.

http://http://www.trumpchicagohotel.com/Food_Wine/The_Terrace_at_Trump.asp

It’s a great place for locals and tourists to really kick back and enjoy the city.

I consider myself an intrepid traveler, willing to put up with a lot to discover the joys of new places and adventures.

The spray is made from essential oils.

So I read with interest today about a new product  called Rest Easy, an all-natural spray sold online at www.resteasykillsbedbugs.com and at national retailers like Bed, Bath and Beyond for $8.95 for a twin-pack of two, 2-oz. spray bottles.

I haven’t tried it yet so can’t recommend it at this point, but at that inexpensive price and in a size that works with carry-on, this is going with me on my next trip. And if my husband hits the road before I do, it’s going with him, too.

The company says the product is made from essential oils (cinnamon, lemongrass, clove, and mint), is safe, earth-friendly, and “even smells of minty goodness.”

Sleep tight.

 You are at Clayoquot Wilderness Resort, a premier glamping—or glamorous camping—destination that made Conde Nast’s 2010 Gold List, was named one of the top ten resorts in the world by Forbes.com, and was the site of the wedding of  actors Scarlett Johansson and Ryan Reynolds.

Clayoquot Wilderness Resort in British Columbia

 Before you can check in to your tent, all guests must sit with managing director John Caton for an orientation where he explains the resort’s do’s and don’ts. Do eat the fabulous meals whenever you want, not just at scheduled eating times, do pick whatever adventure suits your mood at the moment, do take full advantage of the massages and facials at the resort’s Healing Grounds Spa. Don’t keep any food in your tent. It attracts bears. And definitely don’t play with the ear-shattering air horn that is stocked bedside for emergencies. Because when that horn goes off, John comes running with his shotgun just in case you’re having an unwanted experience with a black bear.

 Not your usual welcome wagon, but exotic, extravagant and exciting. The resort bills itself as “remote, refined and remarkable.” And indeed it is all of those things.

 I found it quite remarkable that just minutes after leaving the orientation session to head down a gravel road to my tent, I encountered a bear, calmly walking toward me. He didn’t seem much interested in me and soon scrambled up the hillside. I was very interested in him, however, and couldn’t believe I didn’t have my camera ready to record this up-close-and-personal wildlife experience.

 Clayoquot’s tents don’t disappoint: 11 deluxe guest tents and 9 family tents have comfortable Adirondack-style beds with fine sheets and down duvets, antique dressers and tables, Oriental rugs, oil lamps and temperature-controlled propane heaters. Composting toilets in cedar enclosures are just outside each tent; shower buildings with individual stalls for each tent and a place to store toiletries (which also might attract bears) are a short walk away from the tents.

 The food and drink are outstanding. I’ll always remember a salmon and egg breakfast hash and the decadent cookies kept in a jar on the cookhouse counter, ready for nibbling at any time. And there’s a sommelier who often acquires small-production local wines that get bought out by experts like her before they even make it to retailers.

 Activities, included in the price, are all over the map from horseback riding and hiking to whale watching, fishing, kayaking, ziplining, beach surfing and wilderness gourmet cooking lessons. I rode a horse—for the first time in more than 30 years—through a forest to the salmon-spawning grounds. Also remarkable.

 You can challenge yourself with an activity every day. Or you can sit around, sip fine wine,  peruse the books in the library tent and wait for someone to ask you if you’d like another cookie. Certainly refined.

 The Clayoquot season runs from May through September and includes all meals, most activities and the round-trip float plane flights from Vancouver. Prices begin at about (converted from Canadian dollars) $5,400 per person for a three-night stay, based on double occupancy, for July and August trips. Prices for children under age 12, staying in the same tent as their parents, are about $2,000, for a three-night stay. For children under 4, prices are further reduced. For the month of September, prices are slightly reduced. Some specials, including one to encourage grandparents to travel with their families, are available. Check out the website at www.wildretreat.com for full details.

The Lagoon Pool at the Ritz-Carlton, Sanya, on Hainan Island in China

By Terri Colby, Sleeping Around

Summer’s end is near and you’ve yet to make plans for that big trip. It’s not too late, although you may need to consider a September departure. That might not be so bad if you’re considering some of the world’s top luxury properties. Here are five locales to consider if you’re looking to squeeze in a fabulous getaway.

Hainan Island, China

The Ritz-Carlton, Sanya, on Hainan Island in the South China Sea, offers many late summer options for travelers looking for luxury at an exotic, tropical beachfront resort.  The hotel has more than 330 guest rooms and 33 private villas. Prices start at about $250 per night for a room with one king or two queen beds and range up to about $910 per night for a 1-bedroom, oceanfront villa with private plunge pool.

The setting is spectacular with white sand beaches and mountain views. A large spa, a fitness center and four swimming pools including a beachfront infinity pool and a lagoon pool that opens to the China Sea can keep you occupied if you don’t want to partake of the activities that include rainforest hiking and scuba diving.

San Diego, California

During August, when San Diego’s average temperature is 78 degrees, the Beach Village at the Del, part of the iconic Hotel Del Coronado, offers luxury cottages and villas with direct access to the glittering Coronado beach. Each cottage or villa has large flat-screen TVs, Bose surround-sound systems, gourmet kitchens and 400-thread-count linens. Some have fireplaces.

Exclusive swimming pools and a complementary buffet breakfast are part of the deal. Nightly prices during August range from $875 for a partial ocean-view room with fireplace and patio to $4,950 for a three-bedroom oceanfront cottage with three fireplaces. Many options lie between.

La Fortuna, Costa Rica

The hot springs ladder of relaxation at Tabacon 

Nourished by hot springs at the base of the Arenal Volcano in Costa Rica’s rainforest, the 114-room Tabacon Grand Spa Thermal Resort has been ranked as a world’s Top 10 eco-spa by National Geographic Magazine. The hot springs feed the thermal pools and attract visitors to the natural waterfalls for relaxation and romance.

The resort is the first hotel in Costa Rica and the second internationally to have achieved the Luxury Eco Certification Standard, earning it “sustainable travel” kudos. It’s been certified a 100-percent carbon neutral resort. Among its many interesting offerings is a romantic dinner for two in an open-air bungalow in the rain forest with private chef and server. Nightly rates range from $245 plus tax for a forest room to $450 plus tax for a suite.

White Sulphur Springs, West Virginia

The Greenbrier has been hosting guests for more than 200 years and tradition is a big part of its allure. But there’s still something new: The Casino at The Greenbrier, a Monte Carlo-style casino with table games such as craps, roulette, blackjack and poker as well as slot machines.

The Greenbrier has a wide variety of luxury accommodations in its 721 rooms including guest houses, seven-bedroom suites and features such as private porches and fireplaces. Among the amenities are myriad activities including horseback riding and falconry, three 18-hole championship golf courses, indoor and outdoor swimming pools and a 40,000-square-foot spa. Rates range from $259 per night while a junior suite’s nightly rate was $425.

Galicia, Spain

5-star Parador in Santiago de Compostela, Spain 

Spain is hot in summer, but the northeasternmost region of Galicia with hundreds of miles of shoreline and coastal breezes can offer cooler luxury getaways for travelers intent on European culture. The Monasterio de Santo Estevo, one of Spain’s historic paradores, or historical buildings now being run as hotels, is nestled among chestnut forests overlooking the River Sil. It looks like something out of a fairy tale.  Nightly rates are about $215 but there are myriad discounts and packages that include stays at more than one parador. Click here for details.

Also in Spain, an interesting luxury tour was announced in June by My Exclusive Journeys. A 14-day land-only package for $6,414 per person, based on double occupancy, includes three days in Madrid, seven nights aboard a luxury vintage train, El Transcantabrico, and a stay at the fabled 5-star Parador in Santiago de Compostela, endpoint for the medieval pilgrimage of St. James. There are tour options for September and October.

Originally published on Affluence.org.

June 13, 2010

SOUTH HAVEN, Mich. — The red-haired toddler’s blue eyes filled with tears as the big red ball in the sky vanished beneath the Lake Michigan horizon. No one recalls exactly what he said that day, but it was clear he was heartbroken. Turns out he was afraid the sun was gone for good.

That young boy is now 23, and that story is one of the threads in a tapestry of summertime tales and traditions that have grown over the decades at our family’s vacation destination in South Haven.

Every summer for more than 20 years, almost always on the Fourth of July, members of our extended family of six siblings, spouses, children and additional significant others have made the two-hour trek from Chicago to the lakeside resort town. At first, our parents, Rich and Elaine, rented a house and invited their grown children and young grandchildren to join them at the lake. Poppy died a few years after the first lake trips, and Elaine bought a summer house just up the street from the rental and called it Poppy’s Place.

That is the place around which the summer tradition revolves.

There’s little that can compare with traveling the world and exploring new places; the rewards are endless. But there’s something comforting and nurturing in returning again and again to a familiar destination. And when that place offers beaches and bonfires, parades and pie-eating contests, there’s not much more that a house full of cousins and their baby boomer parents want. Well, except for more beds, make that more beds and bedrooms. The record was 25 people in 2009 in a house that really should sleep only 8 to 10. There are tents, of course, and 20-somethings sleeping on almost every available floor space.

But what is it about returning to a familiar place that makes a vacation so enjoyable? Part of it is that the trip becomes easier: You know which restaurants you prefer, where to shop for necessities, what to do when it rains. There are fewer decisions to make. And there is the anticipation of being able to repeat, or share with others, the thing that you enjoyed most the last time around.

Either way, South Haven is a winner. It has small-town charm with world-class beaches, a variety of attractions and decent restaurants. And there’s just something about the sunsets.

So, take it from a regular, here are some highlights you want to consider whether you’re a newbie or a repeat customer:

Beaches

Sand and surf are South Haven’s biggest draws, its beaches within walking distance of the quaint downtown.

Sometimes the waves are so big that people really do surf. Sharkless Boardsports (269-639-7873, sharkless.com) in downtown South Haven, rents surfboards and equipment for kite boarding and other active pursuits.

South Haven itself has seven public beaches along five miles of shoreline. When you include the surrounding area of Van Buren County, you have 13 miles of public and private Lake Michigan beaches, including the public dog beach at Hagar Shores, about 10 miles south of South Haven.

South Haven’s shoreline is split by the Black River, which runs through the town. That provides riverside dining for all, plus docking and lake access for boaters. Just to the north of the river is North Beach, probably the most congested of all in town. But there are reasons so many make it their destination: wide flat swaths of smooth sand, playground equipment, beach volleyball pits, a wooden walkway that eases access for people in wheelchairs, and a real, old-fashioned concession stand that sells ice cream and lemonade and rents volleyballs. Plop down on one of the stools, dig your toes into the sand and watch the world go by.

South Beach is on the other side of the river and is closest to the historic lighthouse that stands at the end of the pier, where the river empties into the lake. It’s close to the many activities taking place each year in Riverfront Park. It’s also within walking distance of Kids Korner, an elaborate, mazelike wooden playground little kids seem to love.

Packard Park Beach is about half a mile north of North Beach. We often walk to the wooden viewing stand to survey sunsets. Up top, away from the beach, are picnic tables and grills in a grassy area, and public bathrooms.

Places to stay and eat

Cottage and condo rentals, hotels and B&Bs are among the options in South Haven. Prices and booking information can be found at the city’s tourism Web site, southhaven.org. There are many good choices, from old-fashioned, smallish beach cottages with sand and water outside your front door to more elaborate rental homes to elegant B&Bs to the retro Sleepy Hollow resort.

Dining options are varied, but two must-stop locales are the Sherman Dairy Bar on Phoenix Road just outside of town, near Interstate Highway 196, and Clementine’s (500 Phoenix Road) in the heart of downtown. Sherman’s ice cream is rich and creamy and comes in more than 50 flavors. The crowds don’t seem to stop anyone from coming. Some people have been known to splurge and have ice cream for breakfast. It’s OK, this is a vacation. Clementine’s draw is that it’s right in the middle of downtown and has cocktails and a kids menu and entrees ranging from fried perch to steak to sandwiches and salads. It’s good food at a decent price. Insider’s tip: There’s always a crowd at Clementine’s, so stop in about an hour before you want to eat and put your name on the list (they don’t take reservations). Then you can wander around the downtown shops until your table is ready.

Attractions and events

South Haven calls itself the Blueberry Capital of the World. Regardless of the veracity of that claim, the annual National Blueberry Festival — this year Aug. 12-15 — is a fun family event that draws 60,000 to 100,000 visitors. Pie-eating contests for all ages are great photo opportunities. There also are riverfront concerts, an arts-and-crafts fair, a 5K run and a parade.

Another big draw is the Fourth of July, which includes a fireworks display for which thousands jam the beaches, radios in hand, to listen to music synchronized to the night-sky explosions.

But check the calendar: The fireworks aren’t always when you might expect them. This year the big display is Monday, July 5. And each Fourth of July, the town hosts an annual art fair that draws 200 to 300 artists from around the U.S. to the lovely Stanley Johnson Park.

Though we return year after year, there always seems to be something we haven’t done.

If I have my way, this year we’ll be checking out the Pirate Chaser Sails, 90-minute sails for kids age 4 and up along the river and out onto Lake Michigan. (800-747-3810, michiganmaritimemuseum.org). The trips aboard the 1812 tall-ship replica Friends Good Will are provided by the Michigan Maritime Museum. Pirate sightings are guaranteed.

If you go

Getting there: South Haven is about 130 miles from Chicago, so it’s about a two-hour drive if you don’t get caught in traffic. Before you go, check out southhaven.org, a good Web site with lots of information on events and lodging.

Other draws: Black River Books, 330 Kalamazoo St., 269-637-7374, a comfortable used-book store right in downtown with more than 30,000 titles — just in case you’ve run out of good beach reads. Maybe you can get a copy of Audrey Niffenegger’s “The Time Traveler’s Wife,” which is set in South Haven and Chicago.

Kal-Haven Trail, a 33.5-mile path between South Haven and Kalamazoo, is perfect even for casual bike riders and families: straight, fairly flat, well-maintained and picturesque, stretching through farm fields, cool, shady groves and along the Black River. Best of all, the trail mostly slopes down toward the lake, so the trip back to South Haven is even easier than the trip out, no matter how far you’ve ridden.

Michigan Theater, 210 Center St., 269-637-1662. We liked this downtown movie theater better before it was remodeled, but it’s still a favorite attraction with first-run films at bargain prices: $5.50 gets you admission to the movie and a drink. You can take the kids and get snacks without breaking the bank. It’s the only movie theater where I’ve ever allowed my kids to buy treats.

Stephenson Farms, 6783 Baseline Road, 269-637-4824. A good choice among the blueberry you-pick farms. Very relaxed place, where the buckets come with ropes to tie around your waist so both hands are free when you head to the blueberry bushes. Or you can buy a box filled with berries that someone else’s fingers picked.
Copyright © 2010, Chicago Tribune

It’s summertime in Chicago and the place to go is Millennium Park in the heart of downtown. Bounded to the east by Lake Michigan, dotted with bopping sailboats,  and to the west by Michigan Avenue’s iconic cityscape, the park is home to the Priztker Pavilion where free concerts draw thousands on gorgeous summer nights, the Crown Fountain where children can’t resist playing in the water and Anish Kapoor’s reflective sculpture “Cloud Gate,” dubbed the Bean by Chicagoans. Take a look at my video to get a sense of what you’ll find if you make the trip.

Holly Golightly kept me company — courtesy of Truman Capote’s “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” — on my latest trip to Manhattan. It was an excursion that combined my passion for books with my love of travel.

The tale of the flighty Golightly’s time in New York City was ideal for my unusual obsession: When I travel, I absolutely must read a novel set in the place I am visiting. Whether it’s current — or like Capote’s novella, 50 years old — doesn’t matter. What I crave is the novelist’s perspective, and I delight in walking past the places I am discovering in a book. 

LIBRARY HOTEL 299 Madison Ave., (212) 983-4500, www.libraryhotel.com

Doubles start at about $429.

PETE’S TAVERN 129 E. 18th St., (212) 473-7676

IDLEWILD BOOKS 12 W. 19th St., (212) 414-8888, www.idlewildbooks.com

STRAND BOOK STORE 828 Broadway, (212) 473-1452, www.strandbooks.com

First stop on this trip and home base: the Library Hotel in midtown, which I had been itching to visit since I discovered it online. Our cab driver didn’t know the hotel, which I took as a good sign. It must be mainly discriminating bibliophiles who make their way to this boutique property with 60 rooms categorized according to the Dewey Decimal System. I am not a book snob, but it’s just too quirky a concept to attract guests who aren’t drawn to scanning the titles on a bookshelf.

We arrived too early for check-in, but the staff stored our luggage and offered us the complimentary breakfast, even though we hadn’t been guests the previous night. The spread was laid out in the second-floor Reading Room, where guests could look toward the iconic lions outside the New York Public Library a block away on Fifth Avenue. I was eager to find out which room we had been given, but all the staff would tell us was that we were on the Religion floor. I had been hoping for fiction; erotica, maybe. (It’s OK. I was traveling with my husband.)

Perhaps my favorite Manhattan bookstore is Idlewild Books, where owner David Del Vecchio, a former United Nations press officer, shares my passion for combining literature and travel. His shop, near Union Square, opened a little more than a year ago and carries guidebooks from around the U.S. and world. But it also stocks contemporary and classic fiction and nonfiction.

What makes this bookstore different is that the books are not grouped by genre but by destination. The guidebook “Florence & Tuscany,” by Rick Steves, for example, is one shelf over from Thomas Mann’s “Death in Venice.” A Lonely Planet offering on Mexico sat one shelf above “Mexican Enough,” a memoir by Stephanie Elizondo Griest.

The store, with its big and bright second-floor space overlooking 19th Street, is a great place to spend a few hours and plan a few trips. I’m dreaming of Morocco, and I couldn’t leave without purchasing “In Arabian Nights” by Tahir Shah. If you’re not lucky enough to make a trip to the store, Idlewild offers customized gift packs you can order online.

We decided not to stray from the literary theme at meals. Pete’s Tavern, in Gramercy Park, claims to be New York City’s oldest continuously operating bar and restaurant. It opened in 1864 and stayed open, disguised as a flower shop, during Prohibition.

But the history that sent us here was one of its famous patrons. O. Henry was reputed to be a regular who wrote his masterpiece “Gift of the Magi” here. It’s also where Ludwig Bemelmans wrote his “Madeline” children’s book. A plaque outside from Friends of Libraries USA designates the tavern as a literary landmark for its “nurturing atmosphere” for the two writers.

The place was crowded with locals on the day we were there. It was easy to see why. A bowl of soup for $4; chef salad for $8.95. With its dark wood and an old saloon’s odd nooks and crannies, it seemed like the kind of place for a burger and beer. The burger was $8.25. Not bad for a restaurant in Manhattan.

A book lover can’t visit here without a stop at the Strand Bookstore, on Broadway at 12th Street. In business since 1927 and occupying 55,000 square feet, the Strand shouts its “18 miles of books” to all comers. There’s probably no way to know the precise number, but the Strand says it has more than 2.5 million volumes of new, used and rare books.

My head was spinning the first time I walked across the aged wooden floors. This is definitely a New York kind of bookstore: crowds of people, lines for the cashiers, signs pointing upstairs and down, noise, bustle and lots to see.

My skepticism about the “18 miles of books” was immediately disabused. There are shelves upon shelves upon shelves. New fiction near the front; dusty used volumes toward the back. You could spend a day — or three — and on a return visit still find something you hadn’t seen.

A place with more books than the Strand is the New York Public Library’s Stephen A. Schwarzman Building on Fifth Avenue. The free tours, offered daily, give a sense of the immensity of the collection and an up-close look at the magnificent Beaux Arts building that opened to the public in 1911.

When we finally checked in at the Library Hotel, we were assigned to the Eastern Religions room on the 12th floor. It wasn’t what I had in mind, but I wasn’t disappointed. The rooms have a theme, but mostly that has to do with the types of books in each room, not with furnishings or design.

Our room with a queen-sized bed, at $250 per night for a weekday stay in April, was sleek and comfortable, not large but sufficient. The furnishings in the room and throughout the hotel were updated Midcentury: Think “Mad Men,” but with 21st century accouterments.

The Reading Room, where breakfast is served, is bright and open, with fresh flowers, a grand piano and shelf upon shelf of hardcover books. If a guest borrows a book and hasn’t finished when it’s time to leave, he’s asked to mail it or hold on to it until a return visit.

The hotel also has a rooftop bar adjacent to its Poetry Garden terrace and Writer’s Den with fireplace.

I had wanted to stop at Tiffany on this trip. Its cachet is not exactly literary, but it has its place in literature. As Golightly knows, nothing bad can ever happen to you at Tiffany.

Maybe next time.

travel@latimes.com